The Japan Times - Soviet architecture vanishes as Central Asia drifts from Moscow

EUR -
AED 4.09717
AFN 71.955477
ALL 90.307485
AMD 402.108707
ANG 1.996748
AOA 1024.153221
ARS 1724.405821
AUD 1.627572
AWG 2.010933
AZN 1.894218
BAM 1.945165
BBD 2.247115
BDT 139.102616
BGN 1.949942
BHD 0.420904
BIF 3337.627328
BMD 1.115636
BND 1.426334
BOB 13.231837
BRL 6.237963
BSD 1.115725
BTN 104.853157
BWP 15.306522
BYN 3.340611
BYR 21866.457781
BZD 2.243883
CAD 1.582881
CDF 2555.921248
CHF 0.921509
CLF 0.027952
CLP 1100.106009
CNY 7.444416
CNH 7.450103
COP 3678.696831
CRC 504.652276
CUC 1.115636
CUP 26.776607
CVE 109.666415
CZK 24.363641
DJF 198.270461
DKK 7.475757
DOP 67.670638
DZD 152.368275
EGP 59.432696
ERN 16.734534
ETB 181.592241
FJD 2.520723
FKP 0.831321
GBP 0.836743
GEL 2.889263
GGP 0.831321
GHS 13.064748
GIP 0.831321
GMD 82.557231
GNF 9884.182724
GTQ 8.525466
GYD 233.781869
HKD 8.752596
HNL 29.990039
HRK 7.551749
HTG 146.243734
HUF 364.783839
IDR 20225.525157
ILS 3.551012
IMP 0.831321
INR 104.581244
IQD 1691.368119
IRR 2122257.426818
ISK 136.821862
JEP 0.831321
JMD 177.07586
JOD 0.790991
JPY 177.189705
KES 144.966119
KGS 97.562111
KHR 4550.184426
KMF 489.764092
KPW 1004.071998
KRW 1499.547584
KWD 0.347097
KYD 0.929729
KZT 498.113413
LAK 25113.039731
LBP 99909.276364
LKR 370.791121
LRD 189.657157
LSL 18.290864
LTL 3.294182
LVL 0.674837
LYD 7.151963
MAD 10.88349
MDL 20.04866
MGA 5062.390979
MKD 61.570696
MMK 2342.496191
MNT 4017.905911
MOP 9.014455
MRU 45.007339
MUR 52.345629
MVR 17.192133
MWK 1934.648906
MXN 20.826083
MYR 4.525461
MZN 71.300204
NAD 18.290701
NGN 1504.044211
NIO 41.056456
NOK 10.618893
NPR 167.766547
NZD 1.994478
OMR 0.428996
PAB 1.115715
PEN 3.802397
PGK 5.01074
PHP 70.468041
PKR 308.565808
PLN 4.397507
PYG 6887.49903
QAR 4.067001
RON 5.345116
RSD 117.602474
RUB 92.795072
RWF 1650.697507
SAR 4.195254
SBD 9.033635
SCR 15.544939
SDG 671.051455
SEK 11.036838
SGD 1.430747
SHP 0.830117
SLE 25.60372
SLL 23394.325643
SOS 637.619723
SRD 41.887623
STD 23091.404483
STN 24.367325
SVC 9.762843
SYP 14505.493733
SZL 18.296135
THB 37.529772
TJS 10.252961
TMT 3.915881
TND 3.325121
TOP 2.686182
TRY 56.041735
TTD 7.5668
TWD 36.811069
TZS 2948.825547
UAH 50.746126
UGX 4552.112706
USD 1.115636
UYU 45.143596
UZS 13360.077585
VES 1000.926228
VND 28560.271387
VUV 133.877508
WST 3.101582
XAF 655.957
XAG 0.021768
XAU 0.000277651486
XCD 3.015061
XCG 2.010734
XDR 0.788812
XOF 655.957
XPF 119.331742
YER 263.84649
ZAR 18.479902
ZMK 10042.130126
ZMW 22.731721
ZWL 359.234208
SSP 6410.235276
MXV 2.340622
  • RYCEF

    0.1000

    19.81

    +0.5%

  • VOD

    -0.2500

    16.33

    -1.53%

  • CMSC

    -0.2800

    20.12

    -1.39%

  • RBGPF

    -2.0000

    65

    -3.08%

  • RIO

    -0.2500

    94.16

    -0.27%

  • BTI

    -1.2000

    54.85

    -2.19%

  • NGG

    -0.3000

    74.94

    -0.4%

  • GSK

    -0.3500

    49.35

    -0.71%

  • BCE

    -0.4200

    20.14

    -2.09%

  • CMSD

    -0.3400

    19.93

    -1.71%

  • BP

    -0.9100

    43.52

    -2.09%

  • RELX

    0.1700

    33.24

    +0.51%

  • BCC

    -0.6200

    75.97

    -0.82%

  • AZN

    -1.9400

    164.21

    -1.18%

  • JRI

    0.0000

    10.77

    0%

Soviet architecture vanishes as Central Asia drifts from Moscow
Soviet architecture vanishes as Central Asia drifts from Moscow / Photo: STRINGER - AFP

Soviet architecture vanishes as Central Asia drifts from Moscow

On the facade of an apartment block in Tajikistan's capital Dushanbe, a giant mosaic depicting cosmonauts and engineers celebrates the scientific triumphs of the Soviet Union.

Text size:

Like so many other relics of the Soviet past in Central Asia, it is doomed to vanish amid a distancing from Russia and a top-down drive to boost national culture.

"If we could only carefully remove it and put it on the building that will be built here. That would be good," said Rakhmon Satiev, who lives in the apartment.

His wish will not come true. The block is about to be demolished to make way for a gleaming new residential complex, and the mosaic is to be torn down.

Over the past decade, Central Asia has shown little interest in preserving its Soviet heritage. Architectural landmarks and art, including mosaics, frescoes and sculptures, have been rapidly demolished.

"If a building is old and does not fit into the new city plan, it is torn down. The city is being rebuilt and renovated, and the past is vanishing," Dzhamshed Dzhuraev, a mosaic artist in Tajikistan, told AFP.

Hidden from view in the courtyard behind his studio stands a monument to Vladimir Lenin, the founder of the USSR -- an awkward reminder of an era that no longer fits with the times.

- 'No longer necessary' -

The five Central Asian former Soviet republics -- Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan and Turkmenistan -- became independent with the collapse of the Soviet Union 35 years ago.

Their urban landscapes have since turned into a chaotic mix of new high-rises, Stalin-era neoclassicism, dilapidated shacks and stalled construction sites.

Altynai Kudaibergenova, a co-founder of Artkana, a rare initiative group working to preserve Kyrgyzstan's architectural heritage, said the number of lost monuments was "striking".

She fears for the visual future of the capital Bishkek, which still has "magnificent examples of socialist-modernist architecture".

The style is popular on social media, particularly among tourists.

This architectural overhaul is being driven by ideology, which leaves no space for Soviet remnants.

The region's largely unchallenged leaders brand themselves as the founders of a new era and are cementing their own legacies with fresh symbols of power.

Few say outright that is what's going on.

Still economically dependent on Russia -- even as China muscles into the region -- officials frame the demolition drive as cost-efficient.

They say renovating crumbling Soviet-era buildings is more expensive than starting from scratch, and that the region urgently needs more housing for its rapidly growing population of some 80 million.

In the Tajik capital Dushanbe, the mayor -- the son of the president -- "is doing everything possible to make the buildings as beautiful and comfortable as he can," prominent Tajik sculptor Safarbek Kosimov told AFP.

Soviet-era mosaics were "no longer necessary," he added.

There are no such qualms about portraits of 73-year-old strongman leader Emomali Rakhmon -- which have replaced many of the torn-down facades.

- Ideological art -

Critics lament the campaign.

"Most Soviet mosaics were designed to convey an ideological message, but their artistic value is also important," activist Kudaibergenova said.

"Unfortunately, businesses are rarely receptive to such considerations. Their main priority is selling square metres at a high price."

Real-estate deals in the region are often marked by corruption and collusion between officials and business interests, according to several nonprofits and international organisations.

In Bishkek, painter Erkinbek Bolzhurov is worried about the fate of the House of Artists, which stands next to the former national printing house -- of which now only the walls remain.

"We want the city to develop, of course, but not at the expense of our memory," he told AFP.

"Great artists worked inside these walls. That is what makes the building unique -- it has a history."

Freedom of expression is tightly controlled in Central Asia, and authorities rarely consult with the public.

Despite the current trend, Tajik mosaic artist Dzhuraev wants to believe that "the time will come" when mosaics will once again adorn buildings.

"Architects and urban planners should pay them more attention," he said -- a "revival" of mosaics is still possible.

K.Okada--JT