The Japan Times - Geneva opera house selling off thousands of extravagant costumes

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Geneva opera house selling off thousands of extravagant costumes
Geneva opera house selling off thousands of extravagant costumes / Photo: Harold CUNNINGHAM - AFP

Geneva opera house selling off thousands of extravagant costumes

Sandra Delpierre's fingers linger on a long blue and white fur coat and graze a pair of angel wings as she winds past thousands of colourful costumes used in opera performances.

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"There are some real treasures to be found," the head of costume workshops at Geneva's Grand Theatre told AFP.

At a time when Bridgerton-style costume parties are all the rage, the Swiss opera house is planning to sell off 15,000 stage costumes, accessories and shoes from major productions through the years.

Delpierre marvels at the thousands of garments, ranging from vests and tunics to dresses and leotards displayed in a large warehouse near Geneva.

She shows off large animal heads, including a rat and a bull, and an embroidered dress with a ruffled hem made for the production of the Handel opera "Alcina".

There is also a costume inspired by crinoline, the stiff or structured petticoat designed to hold out a skirt or tutu, but whimsically reimagined using neoprene.

The Grand Theatre, a majestic building in the heart of Geneva which opened in 1879, is selling around half of its stock, calling it "a rare opportunity to step behind the scenes and take home a living fragment of the show".

"From valets to duchesses, from three-piece suits to the Roaring Twenties, there is something for every taste," it boasts on its website.

The pieces, some dating back to the 1980s, will go on sale on February 14 and 15, with a time slot reserved for professionals.

- Less than $10 -

Prices range from five to 500 Swiss francs ($6.50-$650), although the star of the sale has been priced higher, at 995 Swiss francs.

That is because the work of Romanian costume designer Miruna Boruzescu for the piece in question is "monumental", said Marianne Perreau, in charge of sorting through, setting up and selling off the massive stash.

"It truly embodies everything that makes a remarkable costume," Perreau told AFP, lifting the heavy, green piece that evokes a luxurious plant creature, entirely composed of overlapping green leaves, embroidered with gold-coloured thread and dotted with peacock feathers.

The costume, which exists in several exemplars but only one of which is up for sale, was worn by dancers in the opera "JJR (Citizen of Geneva)", dedicated to the life and work of philosopher Jean-Jacques Rousseau, by Canadian director Robert Carsen.

"Each piece of fabric, each petal, is made from different material. It was top-stitched to give the impression of veining," she said.

The costume, which consists of a bodice placed over a boned skirt fitted with a farthingale -- a kind of padded roll that provides volume at the hips -- is part of the sale's "Remarkable" section.

A bit further along, Perreau unveils a light green piece, created by Italian costume designer Ezio Toffolutti for one of the fairies in William Shakespeare’s "A Midsummer Night's Dream".

Several designs are also available for children, in yellow and grey.

Also on display are imposing and extravagant birds in tailcoats, created by Greek costume designer Yannis Kokkos for a male choir, each with enormous, rounded artificial bodies affixed with real feathers that have been dyed pink.

- 'Difficult choice' -

After months of sorting, every costume has been labelled to identify the production it was part of, the role it was used for and the performer who wore it.

"A collection needs to be rotated, renewed and updated to fit current tastes," Delpierre explained.

"So we have to part with some of our heritage to make room for other productions."

Some little-worn pieces are in excellent condition. Others are a bit tattered.

Delpierre voiced regret that limited storage space is pushing the Grand Theatre to part with some outfits.

"We're forced to make a difficult choice," she said.

But the sale is sure to delight potential buyers.

Delpierre said the opera house expected to see independent companies and performing arts institutions, as well as collectors, and individuals just eager to dress up.

The sale will be perfect, she said, for "people who dress more eccentrically and want to find a truly exceptional piece for their wardrobe".

S.Yamada--JT