The Japan Times - MaXhosa puts South Africa on the Paris fashion map

MaXhosa founder Laduma Ngxokolo sent out 54 looks for his first appearance on the Paris Fashion Week calendar, including one that highlighted the recent re-scaling of his continent on the UN's official map.

"I feel honoured to be represented. I've been fighting to sit on the table for 16 years now," Ngxokolo, 39, told AFP of his invitation to the world's most prestigious fashion calendar.

The idea of his Spring-Summer 2027 collection was celebrating unity between African people, with one wool dress featuring knitted tassels emblazoned with the names of the continent's countries.

Another black-and-grey outfit had a huge outline of Africa at the front, with other areas of the world on the back and sleeves, in a nod to a recent re-sizing of the United Nation's official map to better reflect the true size of the landmass.

"We appointed ourselves to to be one of the forerunners that showcases the African continent to the world," Johannesburg-based Ngxokolo said with a smile.

The catwalk show at the South African ambassador's residence featured a live performance from Afro-soul singer Sjava, with eyewear and accessories from upcycled waste made by the Kenyan artist Cyrus Kabiru.

After founding MaXhosa Africa in 2010 -- the name is a reference to the Xhosa people of South Africa -- the group now employs around 300 people, runs eight stores and produces all of its knitwear from its two factories in Johannesburg and East London.

It counts Michelle Obama and Beyonce as fans.

"I grew up in looking at inspiration such as Gucci, Louis Vuitton, and various other established brands," Ngxokolo told reporters backstage. "But there's no brand that is known to be proudly 'made in Africa'.

"Ninety percent of our products are produced in-house."

- Rare honour -

Very few other African designers have been afforded spots on the Paris Fashion Week calendar which is decided by France's Haute Couture and Fashion Federation (FHCM).

The federation has been gradually working to diversify its roster of brands, inviting global up-and-coming labels to join the French industry behemoths such as Saint Laurent, Christian Dior or Chanel.

Cameroonian designer Imane Ayissi made history in January 2020 when he became the first sub-Saharan African designer on the official Haute Couture calendar.

Other American or European designers of African heritage have featured prominently, including the late Virgil Abloh, who headed Louis Vuitton menswear, Olivier Rousteing, the former Balmain designer, or Emeric Tchatchoua behind Paris brand 3.Paradis.

"We feel that we are still under-represented as the African continent, and more platforms can be done (offered)," Ngxokolo told AFP. "But, on the flip side, we need to take this fashion business thing seriously as well.

"I am for professionalism. I am for good quality standards. I am for high standards in everything that we touch," he added.

- Changes ahead -

A total of 67 catwalk shows for 2027 Spring-Summer have been planned for this Women's Fashion Week, with dozens of other brands set to show their designs in private viewings and events around the French capital.

Industry big beasts Christian Dior and Saint Laurent will send their new collections out on Tuesday.

It could be a last show for Saint Laurent's Belgian designer Anthony Vaccarello, who has been the driving force behind the brand's success for the past decade but is reportedly heading for the exit.

If his departure is confirmed, he is unlikely to be the only creative director heading for the chop as label owners and chief executives look to revive their fortunes in a tough commercial environment for luxury brands.

At Balenciaga, Italian designer Pierpaolo Piccioli is reportedly in the sights of parent company Kering, having failed in the difficult task of maintaining sales levels achieved by his predecessor Demna, according to specialist blog Miss Tweed.

At Chloe, artistic director Chemena Kamali, in the job since 2023, is also being pushed towards the door over a lack of profitability, according to investigative outlet Glitz.

Other shows on Monday included ones by Canadian trendsetters Matieres Fecales, Julie Kegels, Weinsanto, and Hodakova.

K.Nakajima--JT