The Japan Times - Prada unravels, layers and reveals at Milan Fashion Week

At Milan Fashion Week on Thursday, the Prada show opened with cozy knit sweaters and multi-coloured scarves, only for garments to be ripped open, exposed and distressed as the catwalk continued.

Meta's Mark Zuckerberg and wife Priscilla Chan were celebrity guests in the front row of the Fall/Winter 2026-2026 women's show, but most of the shrieking by the female crowds outside was reserved for Thai actor Pond Naravit Lertratkosum and Korean K-pop sensation Wooyoung -- wearing Prada, of course.

The collection celebrating layering from co-designers Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons was filled with curious surprises, from faux fur embellishments running up and down the chest like tactile ties to shimmery linings peeking out from slashes in garments.

In their show notes, the designers described "mutations from within, visible to the exterior" as fabrics looked as if they had been purposefully eaten away or distressed, revealing hidden mysteries beneath.

"I think that we like very much the idea that there is a lot of things coming together that do not necessarily give you what you expect," Simons said backstage after the show, as model Bella Hadid enthusiastically kissed the hand of Prada.

Hadid was one of just 15 models working the show with 60 outfits, where each time the outfit was broken down to reveal new possible looks through layering.

"It's a lot about the feel, to kind of be inspired, and bring things together that feel contemporary to us, but not necessarily very narrative," said Simons, who has co-designed with Prada since 2020.

Exaggerated pink cuffs adorned shirts worn under sweaters or jackets, and a pink satin dress looked literally ripped open at the bodice to expose a shiny black corset-like top beneath.

Scraps of animal-patterned fabric were incorporated into a black silk dress, while bulky sweaters were tucked into sheer skirts.

The setting inside the Fondazione Prada emphasised the inside/outside theme, with pink and white walls decked out with elegant boiserie and marble fireplaces, but also exposing brick construction beneath.

Like at the brand's men's show in January, a short yellow waterproof cape decorated a coat, while a beige jacket revealed bronze sequins beneath a turned up collar.

The recipe, according to Simons, was "to work instinctively".

"From the heart, from the mind, from the feeling, from our knowledge, from our respect for history and our interest in the future. I think that's what we have to do as designers," he said.

- Armani meets Peaky Blinders -

At Emporio Armani, designers Silvana Armani and Leo Dell'Orco looked to the past for their women's/men's show, featuring a healthy dose of "greige", the beige and grey mix so beloved by founder Giorgio Armani.

Newsboy caps, button-down vests and a predominance of subtle plaids recalled "Peaky Blinders", while pocket watch chains consolidated the 1920s feel.

But the collection also featured shimmering avocado and mauve blouses over flowing tiny shorts, long nubby knit sleeveless dresses with dramatic fringe at the hemline, or jeans and jean shirts featuring sequins adorning one leg or shoulder.

To help close out the show, a line of female models were decked in crisp and roomy white men's shirts, paired untucked with tight black leggings and stiletto heels -- a reworked tuxedo look that felt like the end of a wild night.

M.Ito--JT