The Japan Times - Trends from Milan Fashion Week: Belts and 50 shades of grey

Here are the main trends that were on show in Milan.

- Grey-

All the studios clearly had the grey suits from the 1980 film "American Gigolo" plastered all over their mood boards this season.

And it was in fact Giorgio Armani, who designed the famous suits worn by Richard Gere in the film, who showed a perfect mastery of the colour as the house closed Milan Fashion Week with its show on Sunday.

The "greige" colour invented by Giorgio Armani that skilfully combines grey and beige was spotted everywhere and in expensive materials: silk jacquard, cashmere and organza.

The brand showed off flowing jacket and trouser sets, trouser jumpsuits, and complex embroidery on floaty dresses.

Grey also played a central role in the collection of Antonio Marras, in prince of Wales suits, tartan and tennis stripes, always worn in a tailored style in both men and women's fashion.

The same went for Ferragamo, who used grey in large double-buttoned coats, worn over long silk dresses.

Just like its men's suits -- some contemporary, some in seventies style -- Gucci followed the same pattern for classic women's ensembles, with small jackets and knee-length skirts complemented by a pretty integral tunic emblazoned with the double GG.

Max Mara's collection highlighted flecked grey cardigans and dresses made from thick wool, while MM6 Maison Margiela showed off a greenish-grey hue in "Matrix" trench coats.

- Fasten your seatbelt -

The next season's trend will be belts.

Most looks at Max Mara's show involved belts, from coats and cardigans to a long woollen dress and both mini and long skirts.

Emporio Armani's looks also featured Japanese Obi belts, or belts made from velour with geometric buckles. At Gucci, the fashion house's symbolic horsebit was featured in a metallic belt.

In Prada's collection, thin belts created unexpected volume on oversize coats.

Meanwhile, for Tod and Ferragamo's collections, belts had a more functional role, with Tod's belts allowing for accessories and discreet pockets while Ferragamo's featured oversize bags.

Moschino's cheeky universe distorted the usual use of belts, using them to create structures that were part crinoline, part BDSM.

- Leather trench coats -

Next winter's coat could well be the leather trench coat.

Roberto Cavalli made a strong impression with an all-black rigid leather belted trench coat, while Tod's collection showed off trench coats made of supple, wrap-around leather in bright red, caramel and chocolate.

Rome-based fashion house Fendi featured a trench coat made of cognac leather in retro style with a shirt collar, while Gucci had several varieties, without belts, stripped down and with animal prints, made of beige old leather.

Dolce and Gabbana presented a big leather coat worn over a silk nightdress and accompanied with mustard yellow biker boots, part of the "Cool Girls" collection by the Sicilian duo.

- Matelasse -

The matelasse style was also very visible on the podiums at Milan on coats, jackets and sometimes skirts.

Fendi, which celebrates its 100th anniversary with an acclaimed collection by Silvia Venturini Fendi, granddaughter of the founders, featured a matelasse ensemble comprised of a flared skirt and small hyper-detailed golden ochre blouse that combined style and comfort.

Emporio Armani showed of the trend in short matelasse jackets with herringbone patterns, brightened up with velour details.

Max Mara produced a floor-length belted coat in matelasse style, while the back of Dolce and Gabbana's large coats featured matelasse leopard motifs that kept in line with the season's theme: street wear chic.

And Moschino took the matelasse brief literally with a humorous interpretation, featuring models wearing large padded quilts as coats and pillows instead of hats.

H.Hayashi--JT